The idea of a second act in Tuscany is not just a movie trope. It is a tangible reality for those willing to chase it. Jenny Walton, the vintage fashion illustrator and author of Jenny Sais Quoi: Adventures in Vintage & Personal Style, is living this reality. She moved from New York to Milan, and eventually to a fixer-upper in the Tuscan hills. Her life is an inspiration for anyone who craves a deeper connection to place and personal style. For the traveler, her experience offers a goldmine of practical knowledge. These are not just generic recommendations. They are firsthand accounts of what it means to live, eat, and explore this ancient landscape. What follows is a collection of tuscany travel tips drawn directly from her local expertise, revealing seven spots that define her unique journey through the region.
A New Chapter in the Tuscan Hills
Jenny Walton’s path to Tuscany was a gradual, deliberate drift toward a slower rhythm. After spending over a decade and a half in the dense energy of New York City and then Milan, the pull of nature became too strong to ignore. She wanted space for her dogs to run. She wanted a garden. She wanted walls she could paint herself. This desire led her south to Tuscany, a region that rewards patience with profound beauty. Her new book celebrates the art of dressing with joy and curiosity, but her daily life in Tuscany informs every page. It is from this authentic, lived-in perspective that she shares her most cherished local haunts. For anyone planning a trip, adopting her mindset of intentional slowness is the first step. It transforms a simple vacation into a genuine experience of Italian culture.
The Seven Stops on Jenny Walton’s Personal Map
These destinations are not the typical crowded squares found in mass-market guides. They are the quiet, flavorful, and deeply beautiful corners of Northern Tuscany where Jenny Walton finds her inspiration. Each location offers a specific taste of the region’s diverse offerings, from farm-to-table pastas to the crystalline waters of the coast.
Agriturismo Casa Turchetti: A Cornerstone of Local Tuscany Travel Tips
For those seeking authentic Tuscan food, Jenny Walton points directly to Agriturismo Casa Turchetti. An agriturismo is a working farm that offers lodging and meals, and it is regulated by Italian law (Law no. 730 of 1985) to use mostly its own produce. This guarantees a freshness that is hard to beat in a standard restaurant. At Casa Turchetti, the menu shifts with the seasons, but there are standout staples. Walton specifically mentions testaroli al pesto, a unique type of pasta that is more of a dense crepe, cut into diamond shapes and tossed with basil pesto.
The real revelation, however, is the necci con ricotta. These are chestnut flour pancakes, rolled and stuffed with fresh sheep’s ricotta, creating a simple yet unforgettable dessert. The chestnut flour (farina di castagne) is a hallmark of the Appennine mountains in this part of Tuscany. It has a sweet, earthy flavor that pairs beautifully with the creamy ricotta. Visiting in the autumn is ideal, as the chestnut harvest defines the local cuisine. This is where tuscany travel tips become truly delicious. You are not just eating a meal. You are participating in a local agricultural tradition that has sustained families in this region for centuries.
Porto Venere: A Neighboring Gem
Jenny Walton’s advice about the coast is direct and emphatic. She suggests skipping the overcrowded Cinque Terre and heading instead to Porto Venere. The Cinque Terre villages see over 2.5 million visitors annually, leading to crowded trails and a frantic pace. Porto Venere offers the same breathtaking Ligurian Sea, but with more space and a more relaxed atmosphere. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site, anchored by the massive Church of San Pietro, which sits precariously on the rocks at the tip of the promontory.
The town itself is a maze of narrow alleys known as caruggi, leading to a bustling harbor filled with colorful boats. From here, you can take a short ferry to the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto, which form a pristine archipelago. This tuscany travel tip is really about strategic convenience. While Porto Venere is technically in Liguria, it is easily accessible from Northern Tuscany via the A12 highway or a train to La Spezia. It provides the coastal beauty travelers yearn for without the anxiety of massive crowds. Walton describes it as “perfection” for good reason. The light hitting the pastel houses is a painter’s dream, and the pace of life here allows for genuine relaxation.
Villa Petriolo: Where to Stay for Wine and Views
For a place to stay that combines luxury with the earthy soul of Tuscany, Jenny Walton recommends Villa Petriolo. Perched on a hilltop, this restored historic villa is an ideal base for exploring the central parts of the region. It is an easy drive to the art-filled cities of Lucca and Pisa, but the property itself is a destination. They offer wine tastings that dive deep into the local vintages. This is not just a glass of Chianti. It is an education in the soil, the climate, and the varietals that define this area like Sangiovese and Canaiolo.
Staying at a villa like this allows you to practice the concept of villeggiatura, the Italian tradition of spending a long holiday in the countryside. You can swim in the pool, walk through the olive groves, and let the days stretch out. The pace here is deliberately slow. For families or couples looking for a restorative holiday, this fits perfectly into a set of practical tuscany travel tips that emphasize quality over quantity. It is better to stay in one or two beautiful places and explore their surroundings deeply than to race across the map staying in a different hotel every night.
San Miniato: Truffles and Timeless Streets
Tucked away off the main tourist route, San Miniato is a medieval hilltop town with a very specific claim to fame. It is the heart of Tuscany’s truffle country. Unlike the better-known San Gimignano, which is often shoulder-to-shoulder with visitors, San Miniato remains remarkably tranquil. The town is split into two parts: the lower district of San Miniato Basso and the historical center of San Miniato Alto. The walk up the hill is worth the effort.
Jenny Walton points travelers toward Enoteca Marilu, a cozy wine bar that perfectly captures the local spirit. Here you can sample regional wines alongside plates of cured meats and, during the white truffle season from September to December, dishes shaved with the precious Tuber magnatum Pico. White truffles are incredibly rare and can command prices of over 3,000 euros per kilogram. Visiting during the annual truffle fair in November is a sensory overload in the best possible way. This is one of those tuscany travel tips that rewards the curious traveler who ventures just a little further off the well-worn path. The views from the top of the Rocca di Federico II tower are a perfect reward for the climb.
Torre di Venere: A Seafood Affair
When Jenny Walton spends a day by the sea in Porto Venere, she knows exactly where to go for lunch. Torre di Venere is a classic seaside spot that focuses on the purity of Ligurian seafood. The philosophy here is rooted in cucina povera, the simple cooking of the people. This means perfectly grilled fish, a generous pour of local extra virgin olive oil, and a glass of crisp Vermentino wine.
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The restaurant offers tables with direct views of the water and the island of Palmaria. It is the kind of meal that stretches for hours. Diners watch the boats bob in the harbor and the light shift across the bay. This is not a place to rush. It is a place to taste the salt in the air and the sweetness of a fresh anchovy (acciuga). For anyone following her trail, calling ahead for a reservation is a smart move. The restaurant’s popularity is well-known among locals, and securing a table by the railing is the best way to soak in the atmosphere. This specific recommendation transforms a simple lunch into a core memory.
Baia Blu: A Hidden Beach Access
Finding a perfect swimming spot without the crush of tourists can be a challenge in the summer. Jenny Walton’s solution is Baia Blu, or “Blue Bay.” This beach is a hidden gem, accessed by a beautiful walk through a canopy of olive trees and a fragrant pine forest. The walk itself filters out the crowds. Only those willing to take the path get to enjoy the water.
The beach is composed of smooth pebbles and rocks, so bringing good water shoes is a practical must. The water here is remarkably clear, perfect for snorkeling. This is where those tuscany travel tips about packing become very real. You do not need high heels for this part of the trip. You need sturdy sandals, a sun hat, and a towel. The shade provided by the pine trees right up to the shoreline offers natural relief from the heat. It is a wild, natural spot that feels a world away from the polished lidos of the Riviera. It represents the kind of discovery that makes a trip feel personal and adventurous.
Lerici and Sarzana: Ending the Day in Style
After a day of sun and salt, Jenny Walton suggests migrating to the nearby towns of Lerici or Sarzana for the evening. Lerici is part of the famous “Gulf of Poets,” named for the Romantic poets Lord Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley who found refuge here. The small town wraps around a stunning bay, dominated by the Castello di Lerici. Walking along the promenade at sunset is a ritual that everyone should experience. The castle glows in the golden light, and the sea turns a deep violet.
If you are looking for a more grounded, everyday Italian experience, Sarzana is the better choice. It is a market town with a less touristy vibe. Its main square, Piazza Garibaldi, is alive with families taking the evening passeggiata (stroll). Here you can find an aperitivo without the hefty price tag of the coastal resorts. For travelers gathering tuscany travel tips, this is a crucial lesson. Your base does not have to be in the most famous town. Staying near Sarzana gives you access to the coast, the mountains, and the major cities of Tuscany without the premium cost. It is a strategic, smart way to explore the region deeply.
Packing the Wardrobe for the Journey
Jenny Walton’s sense of style is iconic, but her approach to packing for Tuscany is refreshingly practical. For summer trips, she emphasizes lightweight beachwear and items that layer well. The beauty of the region is that cool stone houses in the mountains provide a natural respite from the heat, but you still need simple dresses and swimsuits for the coast.
For winter, the advice changes completely. The region can see significant rain, so a good rain jacket is essential. The streets in towns like San Miniato are made of old, uneven stone. High heels are a hazard. She insists on practical walking shoes that are still chic. Her personal choice? Jelly gardening shoes. It sounds unconventional, but the logic is solid. They are waterproof, comfortable for walking, and easy to clean after a day in the mud or on the beach. It is a mindset shift from dressing to impress others to dressing for the demands of the environment. This is the final, valuable piece of wisdom from her journey. The best outfit for Tuscany is one that lets you walk further, stay out longer, and feel comfortable in your own skin.
